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Why Your Photos Are Not Sharp When Using A Tripod?

A tripod is undoubtedly one of the most important accessories that a travel or landscape photographer has. For most, it is their favourite tool in capturing great shots. A tripod can offer so much and really make a difference to the quality of your photos. But sometimes you may find that your photos are not sharp even when you have used a tripod. This can be incredibly frustrating, so here are 7 reasons that your photos might not be sharp even when using a tripod.

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Not on stable ground

The first part of ensuring that your images will be sharp is to make sure your tripod is set up securely so that there isn’t any movement. This might sound obvious, but I have seen so many instances where photographers set up their tripod wrong.

You also need to be aware of where you and your tripod are. For example, if your tripod is placed on a bridge there may movement when people or cars go past. You can’t stop this happening so you need to try and time your shot to take photos to coincide with a gap in the traffic. Or you need to use a faster shutter speed.

So the first step in capturing sharp photos with a tripod is to make sure your tripod is stable.

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Too windy

There are times that no matter what you try the conditions will be against you and even the heaviest and sturdiest tripod won’t be able to handle the wind. The thing to remember is that when you are shooting with slow exposure even the faintest of movements will cause your shots to be blurred. So what do you do?

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In a strong wind, even with a tripod, an image won’t be sharp at slow shutter speeds.

In these scenarios, your only option is to use a faster shutter speed to minimise the potential of camera movement during exposure. For example, even though you may want to capture the beautiful silky water, it may not be possible. 

One thing you could try is to get your tripod as low to the ground as possible and spread the legs out. This might buy you a couple more stops in strong wind.

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You didn’t lock up the mirror

This is one of the most common mistakes that newbie photographers make when using a tripod and shooting slow exposure shots. In DSLR cameras, there is a mirror that reflects the scene into the viewfinder. That is how you see a live image rather than a digital one (like you get in mirrorless cameras).

When you press the shutter button to take a photo, this mirror flips up to expose the sensor to light to create the image. Incidentally, this is why your viewfinder goes dark. Because the mirror has flipped up. At fast shutter speeds, this doesn’t cause any issues. However, when you are shooting long exposures the mechanical movement of the mirror flipping up and down can cause vibrations which make your image look slightly blurred.

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The solution is to go into your camera’s menu and select “lock up mirror”. This ensures that the mirror is flipped up before the sensor is exposed. Another easier solution is to set your camera to “Live view mode” which also does the same thing in flipping the mirror up.

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Image stabilization in on

One of the best innovations in photography has been image stabilization. This can be really useful in allowing photographers to shoot at slower shutter speeds than was possible before. While this works great when you are shooting handheld, when your camera is on a tripod, the lack of movement can confuse the image stabilization system. This can cause your images to appear soft. So remember to turn off the IS when your camera is on a tripod.

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You touched the camera

The most important thing to remember when your camera is on a tripod is that any movement can cause your photos to appear blurred (when you are not using fast shutter speeds). So even pressing the shutter button can cause this movement.

Rather than pressing the button to take a photo, set your camera on a timer. So that when you press the shutter button it takes a few seconds for the camera to take the photo. Or alternatively, you can use a shutter release cable.

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Aperture too small

You probably already know that the smaller your aperture is, the greater your depth of field will be. So in landscape photography, for example, you will want to utilise this long depth of field. Most lenses have a sweet spot for sharpness which is around f/8 to f/11. That doesn’t mean that other apertures will give you a blurred photo.

But where it does start to cause problems is when you use extremely narrow apertures of f/18 and smaller due to something called “diffraction”. There’s plenty online about the science of this occurrence. But in short, this is an optical issue that is caused by small apertures. So always aim to keep your aperture at no more than f/16. 

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This shot was taken at f/18. You can see that when zoomed in, the image isn’t 100% sharp. 

Not a good tripod

Like anything in life, sometimes the quality of a product makes a difference. A cheap and flimsy tripod might be more susceptible to vibrations and movements. So try to invest in a good quality carbon fibre tripod. I have had my Manfrotto tripod for almost 15 years and in that time I have dropped it, knocked it around and it even got hit by a car and it’s still standing strong.

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Capturing sharp photos when using a tripod isn’t a given but if you follow the advice above you should end up with sharp photos when using a tripod every time.

Lumix GH4 upgrade to infrared

For a few years I have been using a Lumix G6 which had been converted to IR by LifePixel. It’s been great. But, I decided I wanted a pro level camera. As new models came out from Lumix such as the G9 and Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III I saw my Lumix GH4 starting to gather dust on the shelf. I sold my G6 and sent in the newer camera to be converted.

Conversion

I’m kind of old school when it comes to IR so I opted for the 720NM on both conversions. The traditional IR look that I can create that replicates my experiences from the film days. Of course with live view cameras and the ability to see the image in black and white are wonderful. In addition, not having to reset focus and seeing the BW result is a far superior IR capture experience. If you have a camera collecting dust an IR conversion puts it back into play.

While I’m not a big fan of color IR I do like to tone my images for a different feel. This is a cyan tone vs the image below which is sepia tone.

Oak Creek

I found some time to go shoot what I thought was going to be the last of the fall colors nearby on Oak Creek here in Sedona, AZ. Fortunately I brought the IR camera ‘just in case’ and was quite glad I did. The fall color was past prime and I probably would have headed home. The IR converted camera came to the rescue to allow me to keep shooting.

This is my favorite image from the day. The lone leaf in the corner is what makes it for me.

Platypod tripod

I now always carry a Platypod tripod from a carabiner clip attached to my shooting lens pouch. It acts as a second tripod when I want to do time lapse images , when I want to get really close to the ground, or when I don’t want to have haul my regular tripod. The low angle helped me get the composition and reflections right where I wanted them. A flip screen on your camera is perfect for using this configuration. Keeps you from doing the lay on the belly thing.

Platypod Ultra resting on the rock shelf near the creek. If there was a more uneven surface there are machined bolts that can help level the plate.

If I can answer any questions, let me know. In the not so distant future I’ll show you haw I processed these images in Adobe Camera RAW, Photoshop and NIK Filters.

Yours in Creative Photography,      Bob

 

 

6 Things To Consider When Buying A Tripod

A tripod is arguably the single most important accessory that a photographer has. Without a tripod, some photos will not be possible at all because a tripod isn’t just to take photos when it’s dark. Basically, any time that you want to capture something using a slow exposure you need a tripod. You won’t have the option of raising your ISO for these types of shots as you need the long exposure like for example capturing the smooth water effect. A tripod is an essential part of a photographers kit and as such, you should spend time really considering the different options before purchasing one. So here are 6 things to consider before buying a tripod.

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Is it sturdy?

The number of times that I have seen people with expensive and heavy cameras using a flimsy tripod is astonishing. In fact, I can recall an incident when someone’s tripod fell forwards breaking their lens glass due to the fact that their camera was too heavy for their tripod. So the first and most important thing that you need to check is that your tripod can handle the weight of your camera. All tripods will have this information on their technical specifications but if you are unsure check with the manufacturer. Keep in mind that you are not always going to have a level surface and calm conditions. So if you find that your camera isn’t completely stable don’t risk it and buy a more sturdy and better quality tripod.

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How big and heavy is it?

Following on from above, this doesn’t necessarily mean that you should buy the most expensive and heavy tripod that you can find. On the contrary, often the best tripod for most people for everyday use is a slightly smaller and more lightweight model. After all, you have to carry it around all day so anything big and cumbersome is more tempting to leave at home. How small and lightweight the tripod can be will ultimately depend on what you are photographing and your camera. For example for landscape photography when at times you might be faced with very windy conditions, you’ll need something more heavy-duty. But if you are a city photographer you can get away with something smaller.

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Can you carry it easily?

This might seem irrelevant but how easy it is to carry your tripod is a really important aspect to think about. Often the reason that amateur photographers give for not taking their tripod is that they are heavy and difficult to carry around. This might seem like a poor excuse but if you are hiking somewhere for hours, the last thing that you want is to have to carry an extra object. A good way to avoid having the excuse of carrying a tripod is to be able to carry it effortlessly like strapping it to your bag or even inside your bag if it’s small enough. Some camera bags these days allow you to strap a tripod onto them. So check out your bag and try to buy a tripod that can be strapped to your camera bag (or possibly buy a new bag that can carry your tripod).

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What about vibrations?

I was recently asked a question by a newbie photographer about why his images were blurred even though he was using a tripod. I asked if he had made some of the commons mistakes that people make when using a tripod to which he answered no. It turned out that he was using an aluminium tripod rather than a carbon fibre one. What’s the difference? Well, aluminium tripods are generally cheaper than carbon fibre tripods but are also heavier in weight. But the key difference is that aluminium tripods can sometimes suffer from vibrations which in slow exposure photography result in camera shake (or blurred photos). So, if you can afford it, I would always recommend buying a carbon fibre tripod over an aluminium one.

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Twist or clips?

You have probably seen that some tripod legs are extended by twisting the locking mechanism on each section, whilst some tripods use clips. Both have pros and cons and also their own dedicated users who prefer one over the other. Personally, I prefer the clips to twist option as I find it quicker and easier to extend and collapse the legs. But the disadvantage of the clips is that over time they because much stiffer to use. Of course, depending on your tripod choice you may not have the option of choosing one or the other. But it is something else worth thinking about before buying a new tripod.

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Does it have a centre column?

The centre column isn’t something you should use all the time as it can mean camera shake and so blurred photos. But sometimes it can be useful and necessary in some types of shots. For example, if you to capture over the top shots of objects or food. It isn’t something that is a necessity and you can remove the centre column when not needed to reduce the weight of the tripod, but it’s worth having one just in case you need one.

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A tripod is an essential piece of equipment and as such, you should take your time and do your homework before purchasing one. A good tripod will last you for years (I’ve had mine for over 10 years) so even though it might be an expense you could do without now, it’s an investment that will last a while. Use the tips above to help you buy the right tripod for you.

Photo credits: Kav Dadfar – All rights reserved. No usage without permission.

6 Mistakes To Avoid When Using A Tripod

It was almost as if it was slow motion. The camera fell towards the ground where a big rock and muddy puddle awaited it. Luckily the camera missed the rock and landed in the muddy puddle instead. As I picked it up in sheer terror anticipating the worst, I discovered it still worked! With a bit of cleaning up, I was ready to shoot again. It was a lucky escape that resulted in me not ensuring my camera was properly secured to my tripod as I photographed a waterfall. Had the camera landed a little more to the right it would have no doubt smashed. A bit further to the left and it would have probably been floating away in the river. This happened to me a few years ago and taught me a valuable lesson to always ensure that my camera and tripod are secure and steady when taking a photo.

I often see many amateurs and even pro photographers using their tripod in a way that can not only ruin their photos but also put their camera at risk. So, here are 6 mistakes to avoid when using a tripod to ensure your camera and photos are safe.

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Avoid raising the centre column

I have lost count of the number of times that I have seen people taking photos of landscapes with the centre column fully extended. The thing about the centre column on your tripod is that it can actually be detrimental to the sharpness of your photos. The reason is that it isn’t actually that secure. So even the slightest of movements will rattle the column and thus mean your shots might be blurred (especially in low light conditions).

So what is the purpose of that centre column you may ask? Well; usually the reason that photographers use that central column is to take shots where the camera needs to be facing down fully. Like for example taking an overhead shot of food. By extending the column and tilting it over it allows the photographer to take an over the top shot without capturing the tripod legs.

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Make sure tripod insert is tight

The tripod shoe or insert is what tightens to the bottom of your camera and then subsequently clicks onto your tripod. This small apparatus is what keeps the camera on top of the tripod. If it isn’t correctly screwed in or tightened it could mean camera movement which in turn mean blurred photos.

Always make sure that you are using the correct size screw (most tripods will come with a small metal addition screw that can make the shoe connect to bigger camera holes). Also, check that when you have screwed in the shoe to your camera the arrow at the bottom is pointing in the direction of your lens.

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Mount the camera properly

This is the error that almost cost me my camera. When I mounted the camera onto the tripod, it hadn’t fitted in properly and so it wasn’t secure. As soon as I let go, the camera fell. When you mount your camera, make sure that the connection has closed and is secure. A good habit to get into is to just gently move the camera once you have mounted it to make sure it doesn’t come out. Then you can let go.

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Position the legs correctly

This is often the most common mistake that I see people make. Even if your camera is straight, by not positioning the legs correctly you could find that you tripod falls over with the slightest breeze. It’s all about making sure that the weight of the camera is distributed evenly across the frame of the tripod. Ideally, you should use the spirit level on your tripod to try and get your centre column to be as straight as possible. Sometimes that means lowering one of the legs so that you can do this. But you also should be aware of the need for a potential counterweight that might be needed to stop your tripod falling over.

For example, if you are photographing food with an overhead shot (i.e. your centre column is extended and tilted over), when you mount a camera on, the tripod will immediately start falling over at the camera end. So to ensure it doesn’t you need to hang a sandbag to one of the legs (on the opposite side) to counter the weight balance.

Always look to set up your tripod first and check that it is secure before mounting your camera on. Be especially careful when there is wind as a strong gust can easily knock over a tripod.

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Extend the top legs first

Another potential mistake that you might be making that you don’t even know about it how you extend the legs. All tripods legs come in different sections that are thicker and more sturdy near the top to thinner the lower you get. This is simply so that the tripod legs can be retracted into the upper sections. Naturally, the thicker and more sturdy section of the legs is nearer the top. So if you find yourself needing to only extend you tripod partly, always start with the top section first. On higher end and more heavyweight tripods, you should see any issues even if using the lower part but it’s still worth getting into the habit of using the tripod correctly.

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Be careful how you carry it

It amazes me how often I see people carrying their tripod incorrectly. If your tripod is extended you should always carry it over your shoulder. Even if you have your camera mounted on there, over your shoulder will keep it much safer than any other way. Avoid carrying the tripod by your side as not only there is more chance of you knocking your camera on things but also more risk to others who may trip or be it by the legs.

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Always remember that your tripod is what is holding up your expensive camera and lenses so if it isn’t secure you are risking a potential fall and damage to your camera. But there is also the potential risk to your photos as well. A tripod that isn’t properly set up will move and shake your camera which will mean blurred photos.

Photo credits: Kav Dadfar – All rights reserved. No usage without permission. Dreamstime.

7 Reasons Why You Need A Tripod For Travel Photography

Sometimes carrying a tripod with you seems to be the most arduous thing to do. Especially if for example you are planning on a sunrise shoot and then you are due to be outside all day. Having to carry a tripod all day can often mean people not taking one in the first place. But by doing so you are not capturing the best shots that you can. If you ask travel photographers what their favourite accessory is, most would reply with “tripod”. So here are 7 reasons why you need a tripod for travel photography.

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For sunrise or sunset shots

These times seem to be the holy grail for travel photographers and it’s understandable why. During these times you often get the best light for photography outdoors. The golden, soft light can enhance shadows and give a mundane scene a beautiful glow. Whilst you will often be able to shoot handheld in these conditions, it comes at a price. You will need to raise your ISO to be able to have a shutter speed fast enough to capture the shot. It also limits your depth of field as you may not be able to have a small aperture. So ultimately you end compromising and not capturing the best shot that you can.

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For nighttime photography

You might be able to get away with photographing sunrises or sunsets handheld, but for night time photography it becomes almost impossible. Sure you may be able to raise you ISO ridiculously high but that will mean your photo will be filled with noise and will look soft. It also means that you will not be able to capture certain shots like car light trails as you simply will not be able to hold the camera steady enough at those slow speeds to avoid camera shake.

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For better composition

The great thing about using a tripod is that it often makes you slow down your photography and be more considered. One of the most common bits of feedback that I give to newbie photographers is that they often rush to take a photo. By slowing down you are far more likely to be able to really think about your composition and adjust it if necessary. In addition to this by being detached from your camera, you will also find yourself analysing your shot in greater detail and being more critical.

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For capturing shots that you couldn’t otherwise

Sometimes to capture the shot that you want, a tripod will allow you to do so easier than not having one. For example, imagine trying to capture a low angle shot in a muddy field. Do you really want to lye on the ground and get yourself soaking wet? Why would you when you can use the tripod to capture the shot instead? Not only will using a tripod keep you dry and out of the mud but it will also mean that the camera will be much more steady. I have lost count of the number of times that I have been able to capture a shot with a tripod that I wouldn’t have been able to otherwise.

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I had to place my tripod on a ledge that wasn’t safe for someone to stand on for this shot.

For artistic visions

You might think that the only time you will ever need a tripod will be during low light conditions. But actually sometimes even during the day when there is enough light, you may wish to use a tripod to capture shots that you wouldn’t be able to otherwise. For example, if you want to capture smooth looking water during the day you will need to limit the amount of light coming into the camera. The way to achieve this is by using a neutral density filter. But by limiting the amount of light coming into the camera you are also affecting the shutter speed. If it’s too slow you will not be able to hold a camera steady without suffering from camera shake.

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For when you need an extra hand

In more challenging lighting scenarios, you may have to use a flash, lights or even reflectors to be able to capture the shot that you want to capture. Sometimes this requires you to place your flash away from your camera somewhere in the scene. A tripod is useful to allow you more flexibility in where you place your flash, lights or reflector. Rather than just placing your flash on the floor, using a tripod will allow you to change the height and angle so that you can light your subject perfectly.

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For this shot I have a flash mounted on a tripod sitting behind the pillar on the left to light up the woman’s face.

For keeping you safe

My tripod has managed to not only help me capture great photos, but also save me from potential injury as well. There have been numerous occasions when I have managed to keep myself from slipping over by using my tripod to keep myself steady. Like recently when I was photographing on some rocks on a beach and as I climbed down only my tripod stopped me from slipping over and causing myself serious injury. It’s not what they have been designed for but you never know when your tripod will actually come to your rescue.

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There is no doubt that tripods are cumbersome and sometimes it seems easier not to take one with you. But if you want to capture the best possible photo at that best possible time, then a tripod is essential. One way that you can make things easier for yourself is by having a bag that you can strap your tripod onto when not using it. This will save you at least having to carry it around and leave your hands free. But ultimately the photos you will capture will outweigh the nuisance of having to carry a tripod.

Photo credits: Kav Dadfar – All rights reserved. No usage without permission.

Bare Bones Photography: What Gear Do You Really Need?

What is the end game of photography? To make a photo, right? Not always a print but nonetheless an image of some kind is the final goal of most photographers. The tools needed to complete what can sometimes be a world altering task are simple. At their minimum, you’ll require some type of otherwise light-proof box which has a relatively small opening-i.e. a camera, and some way of recording the incident light which enters-i.e. film or digital sensor. You don’t even truly need a lens(pinhole cameras) to make a photograph but of course that helps immensely.

Now, that list of gear might sound incredibly lacking but when you think about it everything else that we throw into the mix simply expounds on or enhances those basic pieces. There are multitudes of cameras, both film and digital, with equally vast selections of lens and filters for each. Everything else aside, this article will help you if you’re just starting out on your photographic journey in that you will learn what basic photo gear you will actually need…not just what someone might want to sell you.

What You’ll Need

Below is a list of the bare-bones gear that you will need to get rolling in making photographs. Of course there are not real absolutes as you will soon find out but in order to reach the end result, a picture, you will need these few things:

The Most Important Item

The single most important tool you can possess isn’t actually a piece of gear at all but rather the correct mindset. I’m listing this first because everything else is secondary to your ability and to adapt and make the most of whatever camera or lens you have available. When I first started out in photography, eighteen year old me saved $265 and bought a 35mm SLR kit that included one 18-55mm F3.5-5.6. I shot on that one lens for about five years and managed to make some wonderful photographs despite it being a “kit” setup. After I switched to digital photography(I still shoot film as well) the progression evolved much the same way with me beginning with a kit lens and later branching out as I learned more about the craft.

Don’t think that you need incredibly expensive cameras or lenses to get started doing photowork. Granted, there are some things that even the most determined effort can’t make happen without the necessary equipment but you might be surprised how much you can get out of “low end” gear when you approach the problem with creative solutions.

A Camera

The importance of a camera can’t be overstated but that doesn’t mean that it has to be the latest and greatest piece of tech to roll off the line. In fact, if I could back in time I would have spent much less on my first digital camera and much more on the lens. More on lenses in a minute but ironically the camera you use usually plays much less of a role in the final image quality(sharpness/color/contrast) than you might think.

Whether it be film or digital, find a camera that is well built and feels good to you. If you can’t readily handle the camera before you buy then become a review hound and learn everything you can about other users experiences. Luckily, most digital cameras today are so good in terms of ISO performance and build that you won’t really go wrong in most cases. Again, if I can offer a little advice in hindsight, invest more in your glass instead of your camera.

A Lens

The lens is the eye through which your camera sees and there are apparently hundreds of different eyes out there. Like I mentioned earlier, the quality of your lens is a huge factor in the final quality of your photos. If you put a poorly made, blurry and sluggish lens on the most expensive camera in the world you will still get poorly made, blurry and sluggish photos in turn

In short, if you aren’t sure yet which genre of photography you’ll gravitate towards, what’s called a “normal” focal length lens will be the best bang for your buck. The term “normal” refers to a lens approximately equal to the field of view of the human eye which is arguable in the 30-50mm range. Most kit lenses included with cameras hover in the normal range. In any case, find the fastest lens(small F-number/large aperture) that will fit the most situations be it landscape, portraiture or street photography. Fortunately, a fast 50mm lens remains of the cheapest lenses you can currently buy.

Finishing Up

Yes, that really is all you need. While there are a few accessories like film or memory cards that you’ll require the overall basic gear to start making images really is as simply as that.

As you progress you will learn what makes you tick photographically and you can adjust your tools accordingly. Find a camera, find a lens, and start shooting.

Review: K&F Concept TM2534T Professional Tripod

Often times I open my photo gear reviews by talking about what a great time it is to be a photographer. Really, I should specify that it’s an excellent time to be a buyer of photography products. There’s just simply so many choices out there these days than there was even ten years ago for the budget conscious shooter to obtain high quality tools to help them and their work. This is especially true when it comes to choosing a tripod.

Enter the K&F Concept TM2534T tripod, which is a recent entry to the budget line, but not necessarily budget quality, world of advanced hobbyist to professional grade tripods. I’ve spent the last few weeks working with the TM2534T. I’m going to show you what I liked and didn’t like about this unique tripod offering from K&F.

Out of the Box

I pleased to immediately see that the tripod comes with it’s own padded transport bag which has an included shoulder strap. The tripod itself looks great with a classy red/black color scheme and discrete logo placement, which I like. For a tripod with an extended height of 72 inches it is quite compact when folded.

It’s feels solid in hand without being overly heavy. All the paint and finishes on the tripod look very well done. The official specifications from K&F are as follows:

  • Folded height: 14.76in/37.49cm
  • Extended height: 72.24in/183.48cm
  • Weight: 3.48lbs/1.58 kg
  • Load rating: 17.64lbs/8kg

Also included is a short center column conversion attachment with bolt and a nifty storage bag for the ball head.

Build

The TM2534T is hefty and it feels quite sturdy with it’s all aluminum construction. The adjustment knobs are solid and lock the ball head in place securely.

Leg locks are the twist variety and feature rubber seals to protect against sand or dirt entering the locking mechanisms. The locks secure the four section legs securely. There are three angle options for the legs at 25, 50, and 80 degrees. These locks also lock crisply and allow for great versatility for low angle work.

One of the legs is padded and this leg is also the removable monopod. This is a great feature which essentially makes this tripod a two for one deal.

The entire center column assembly can also be attached to the convertible monopod which gives a total height of 77.56in(197cm) if you choose to carry it in this configuration.

Speaking of the center column assembly, it is somewhat puzzling. It’s not that the concept of the two piece center column isn’t a good idea, in fact, it adds an extreme amount of articulation especially for top-down product photography. The entire ball head and center column gives the user the ability to cover virtually in angle imaginable.

However, from a practicality standpoint the added stress points in the assembly don’t seem to be a worth while feature when you take into account the added weight and possibly stability issues. That being said, the ball head itself works smoothly and offers great fluid motion for panning.

The feet of the tripod legs give a great compromise between stability and variable surface suitability. They are rubber boots that terminate in a point that can dig into soft ground while protecting fragile floor finishes.

Also worth mentioning is the base plate that included with the tripod. It has rubber cushioning at the attachment surface as well as a “D” ring screw head which makes attaching/removing the plate MUCH easier especially when a coin or screwdriver isn’t readily available.

Real World Performance

This tripod worked as a tripod should during all my uses. The legs locked securely and remained so during shooting. There was no drift in the ball head during long exposures and all the movements worked smoothly. Something I want to again address is the center column assembly and just how much practical use it adds. The overall height the additional length of the column adds isn’t something most photographers of average height will likely need. Even with the added articulations it allows isn’t enough to justify the added chunkiness and bulk it adds to the total package.

 

 

In the time I’ve used this tripod it has held up to indoor and outdoor shooting well, with only a small amount of wear being noticed at the angle adjustment locks which is largely superficial.

I feel that the TM2534T should have no problem in terms of durability during heavy outdoor or studio use.

Final Opinion

For all practical purposed the TM2534T tripod from K&F Concept is solid option for those needed a well made platform for a wide range of shooting situations. It offers great looks, incredible articulation and versatility, all wrapped up in a package that’s great to look at and won’t break the bank. The overly bulky center column isn’t something that I feel is exactly worth it’s added weight and ungainliness but that is something the user will need to decide. Check it out for yourself and see if it fits your particular needs. It’s going for under $150US at Amazon* or the K&F Concept website.

*Note* The Amazon description lists the tripod(TM2534T) height incorrectly as 66in.

Simple Ways to Improve Your Astrophotography

For eons, mankind has looked up into the night sky in wonderment. All the stars and celestial bodies which hover over our heads have always held a nearly indescribable allure. Since the advent of photography we have looked for ways to photograph all the beautiful happenings of our galactic home.

 

You might think that making photographs of stars or even our own galaxy requires special equipment or extensive knowledge of mind numbing photography concepts. Nothing could be further from the truth. In reality, it all comes down to a few simple techniques and basic camera gear. In this article we are going to look at a few key points that can help you start making great photographs of the night sky right now!

Use a Tripod

Having a stable shooting platform is always a good idea for any type of photograph. The introduction of sharpness-robbing camera shake is one of the largest hurdles to overcome for any photo maker and it is especially true in astrophotography.

Always use a tripod(like the one from this LifePixel article) so that you can eliminate as much motion as possible in your images of the night sky. Speaking of motion….

Make Use of the 600 Rule

We often forget that even though our cameras seem to be perfectly still they, and ourselves, are moving along through space at around 67,000 miles per hour(30 km per second!). That’s not exactly slow. What this means for our astrophotography is that we are constantly working in a moving environment. Depending on the type of night photograph we want to end up with there is a very simple way to make sure all those stars stay in place. It’s called the “600 Rule”.

This was shot at a 7 min 30 second exposure using a 14mm lens. Note the the visible star trails….

Well, it’s more of a guideline for exposure rather than a rule. Since, the earth is moving so fast, longer exposure times results in “star trails” which is the streaking of starlight due to motion. This can be a good or a bad thing. Luckily, we can estimate the longest shutter time we can use based on our lens so that we don’t see star trails. Conversely, we then know what the approximate minimum exposure time needed so that we do see them. And it really is a easy…I promise. The 600 Rule states that the focal length of your lens, be it 14mm, 50mm, 85mm, ect., should be divided into 600. Here’s the equation:

600/focal length of lens = Maximum Shutter Time in Seconds

See! That wasn’t so bad. There are a few versions of this rule which use different numbers such as 400 or 500. They all yield similar results so use whichever one works best for you. I use 600 but this is simply a preference.

Include Interesting Elements

Make your astrophotography more than just pictures of stars by including elements into your foregrounds. People, buildings, trees, even light pollution(unwanted artificial light) can add wonderfully interesting elements to your astro photos.

The fence and building light in the background works to lead the viewer up towards the beautiful Milky Way.

Make use of your entire environment to bring a unique perspective. Sometimes it helps to see just how small we really are in a wide universe.

Use a Remote Shutter Release or Timer

We’ve already learned that camera motion is our enemy when shooting long exposures. Even a small amount of camera shake can ruin a perfectly composed nightscape. You might not realize it, but the impact vibration of pressing the shutter button can cause enough motion to appear in your photo. To combat this, consider using a remote shutter release. Most cameras today have wireless remote capabilities(even budget cameras) and the remotes like these are cheap.

This wireless remote cost me about $11

No remote? Try putting setting your camera to a 2 second or even 10 second timer. This will make sure your camera is as still as possible.

Closing thoughts….

Astrophotography is an almost magical goal for some photographers. When I first began making photographs one of my personal goals was to make a photo of the full moon. It doesn’t take much to be able to make wonderful images of the night sky. Follow the simple tips in this article and you will see…dare I say…ASTROnomical improvement in your photographs! Photography jokes are fun….

First Look at K&F Concept Large Professional Camera Backpack

When K&F Concept was first brought to my attention I will admit that I had never heard of the company before. The world of camera gear and gadgets is of course, “saturated” to say the least. So, when I took a closer look at K&F, I was pleasantly surprised at the apparent quality of many of their offerings.

I just received their “Large Professional Camera Backback” and after a quick once over I’d like to share my thoughts on this surprisingly outstanding(and affordable) gear bag.

So, grab a snack and take a seat. Hopefully you will be as happily surprised as I was to have a look at this nifty camera bag from K&F Concepts.

First Impressions

After a hurried unboxing, the bag emerged as a welcomingly unassuming backpack.

I was expecting it to be somewhat larger(it is a “large afterall) and I was glad to see it wasn’t bulky. The material itself resembles a stone washed denim and looks great. I like the look of the pack. Urban, casual, and streamlined. It would find itself well at home on the sidewalk during a street photography outing or as a refined travel option when shooting on the go. The bottom of the bag’s exterior is lined in black faux leather that adds not only aesthetic appeal but also protects the part of the bag that is likely to contact the ground the most.

The straps are nice and wide and very comfortable with a mesh backing that works to keep your shoulders cool.

There is an adjustable sternum strap which is awesome for distributing weight when you might overfill the pack. The nice thing about having an adjustable sternum strap is that it works with all manner of body sizes. Lady photographers also won’t have to worry about any unfortable “binding” from the strap.

All the zippers and straps are robust and work smoothly.

Space, space, and more space!

If there’s one thing that stands out with this K&F Concept backpack is the monumental engineering in regard to usable space. The storage real estate on this bag is outstanding. The bag itself is a flip open design which gives you front and rear access to the gear you need. We’ll start with the main compartment….

There are lots of padded partitions to keep your camera, lenses, flashes, and whatever else secured. The two main separators are padded but benefit from the addition of a rigid spine which helps keep larger lenses and camera bodies in place and helps the pack keep it’s shape loaded.

I was able to fit a smorgasbord of odd and end gear into the bag with no problems.

Gear shown: Canon 7D, Sony Zeiss Vario Tessar 24-70mm f4, Nikkor 85mm f1.4, Nikkor 50mm f1.8, Rokinon 14mm f2.8, Sigma MC-11 Converter, Canon 430EX Speedlight…stll lots of room left….

Flipping over to the front compartment we have lots of space for a laptop, tablet, paperwork, you name it.

There is room to hold so much here as well depending on your needs. Everything is secured with a large velcro strap. I was able to fit a 13 inch Chromebook into the pocket and had no worries about it being protected.

Tripod Carrier

Perhaps my absolute favorite feature of this backpack is the inclusion of a tripod carrier. There is strap and nifty fold-down flap(which sports has a zippered pocket) that serves to firmly secure your tripod to the bag.

This will work great with travel sized tripods such as the Vanguard VEO 235AB Travel Tripod I reviewed here LifePixel. The only thing I would have liked to have seen was the inclusion of a quick release clasp on the tripod tripod strap for quicker attachment and release of the tripod.

Closing thoughts….

The K&F Concept Large Professional Camera Backpack appears to be a great option for those who need a stylish gear carrier that can fit a monumental amount of camera equipment into a package which is wonderfully manageable. The appearance and comfort of the pack is great. I look forward to using this pack more in the field but if the initial impression of this pack holds I can highly recommend it for those needing a cost effective backpack-style camera bag.

Short Sticks

Do you use a tripod?  I do for almost every shot.  The way I shoot IR necessitates the use of a tripod.  Could I hand-hold my IR shots?  Probably.  But I love to shoot panoramas and in poor weather.  I’m also a sort of a purist when it comes to getting the most out of the camera and lens.  So I always use a tripod. This isn’t just another tripod tutorial.  You can find enough of those on the web already.  What I wanted to do here is share my struggles with finding the right tripod and how I solved the problem.

For those of you that follow my blog posts, you’re probably aware that I started my IR venture as a spin off of my astrophotography.  The stability requirements for long exposure astro photos are much higher than that for photography.  I realize that it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison as equipment for astrophotograpy is typically much heavier.  But I guess my need for absolute stability rubbed off.  When I started looking for a tripod for my IR photography, it should go without saying that my first requirement was a high degree of stability.

I shoot IR with a full frame DSLR and heavy lenses .  I love the medium format lenses.  Did I mention that they are heavy?  Add any filters, lens converters, a battery grip and L-bracket and you’re into a fairly robust system.  Even so, many of the lightest tripods will hold the weight of a camera and a lens in ideal conditions.  I find however, that the load ratings of some units are a little misleading. Sure these ultralight sticks may hold the load.  But I hate having to fiddle with the tripod and wait for everything to flex back to a stable position after making a ball head adjustment.  So I knew I wanted a tripod that could also carry a decent load without flexing.

I also like to shoot down low.  The desert has some interesting foreground elements.  So I also wanted my tripod to be able to work well at low levels.  Almost any tripod these days can splay the legs and get low.  But this is where the strength of lighter tripods can be compromised.  Splaying the legs can reduce the load capability and place additional demands on the materials.  Adding to the list, I also wanted something that was fairly compact, for traveling.  So with my laundry list in hand, I set off looking for the tripod that would fit my requirements.  I never did find exactly what I wanted.

So after some thought, I decided I’d experiment by adapting a stock tripod to fit my needs.  I’m fairly handy when it comes to machining, metalworking and the like.   I felt confident that I’d be able to make the necessary modifications.  I dug around the web until I found a possible candidate, an aluminum leg Benro A3580F.  It met a couple of the initial requirements.  It is stable and has a good load rating (about 6x my camera load) and was also fairly inexpensive.

I did a little reconnaissance to see if I was going to be able to work some magic on this tripod.   It turned out to be a fairly simple design and I decided to proceed.  I began by removing and disassembling the legs.

Once I had the legs completely apart, I proceeded by cutting off 5 inches off each segment of each leg.  Cutting each leg segment the same amount kept the symmetry of the design.  I then cleaned up the cuts and reassembled.  Voila, a shortened tripod.  There were some other details not mentioned.  But in general, it was a fairly simple modification.

Here’s the finished product.  It’s substantially shorter than stock.  But it still maintains the same (or probably higher) load rating, especially when the legs are splayed.

Here’s a comparison with with one of my larger tripods.  I still use the larger tripod for portraits and when I need additional reach.  But for nearly all my IR photography, I take the little custom Benro.

Here’s an action shot with the shortie and my 5DII with a Pentax medium format 55mm lens.  The set-up is really rigid and required a lot less fiddling when trying to set up a shot.  There is almost none of the flex that appears with lighter tripods. It’s hard to describe the satisfaction, unless you’ve experienced such rigidity.

This thing is like a little tank.  I call it my “tankpod”.  It’s short, really stout and can travel almost everywhere.  When I need more height, I can extend the leg segments and get up to about 45 inches (to the  base where the ball head mounts).  I usually use it with the segments retracted or only the first segment extended. When folded up, It travels well and fits in a carry-on bag.  It’s not a Gitzo or RRS, so the build quality is not the same, but is still quite adequate for me.

The last time I presented my shortened tripod to a group of photographers I got a lot of eyebrow raises and eye rolls.  It might not be the thing for you.  But this modification turned out a tripod that suits my needs perfectly.  It now goes with me everywhere I shoot.  So if you’re handy and need something specific in a tripod, think about out what modifications might make it what you need.  Happy shooting.

Review: Vanguard VEO 235AB Travel Tripod

The Vanguard VEO 235AB tripod is a great travel sized option for those on the go who need a lightweight tripod without compromising strength or durability. I’ve been able to evaluate this offering from Vanguard for a couple weeks. In that time I’ve been impressed not only by it’s flawless function and portability but also its versatility. In this review, we will take a closer look at what makes the Vanguard VEO 235AB such an heavy hitter in the world of lightweight tripods. For those who shoot with mirrorless camera systems or smaller sized dSLR’s  is a wonderful alternative to traveling around with a full sized tripod.

Build Quality and Design

The construction of the tripod is of solid aluminum. The center column of the tripod folds down underneath for compact transport and makes the folded height of this tripod a mere 14.88inches(37.79cm). The legs each extend in five sections with four adjustable tension flip locks. The flip locks seem that secure the legs into place feel extremely secure.

The legs also feature a rubber foot/spike design. When indoors or on solid ground the rubber feet do a great job of providing traction for the tripod. When the terrain turns muddy the rubber feet can be screwed upward to reveal traction spikes that bite into unable ground quite well to ensure the tripod stays put.

The overall maximum height with center column extended is 57.1 inches(145cm.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The legs of the Vanguard VEO 235AB are capable of being positioned independently at three separate angles depending on your needs. There is a button at the top of each leg that is used to set the legs at the desired position. These buttons feel very secure and lock the legs with a very satisfying “click.” A rubber wrapping on one of the legs also provides a sure grip when in the rain or during extremely cold conditions.

Included with the tripod is a TBH-50 ball head. The ball head features an Arca-Swiss compatible quick release plate which also incorporates a stop pin on the connector plate to prevent your precious camera from slided sideways off the mount should the lock become loose. The ball head is very smooth in movement and locks down extremely securely. The tripod and ball head are rated to support just over 13lbs(5.9).

Here’s a complete list of specifications courtesy of Vanguard…

Also worth mentioning is the included “low angle” adapter. This is essentially a way to bring the camera as close to the ground as possible with a solid low-perspective platform. You lose the flexibility of the ball head but gain a much lower perspective now that the center column is removed. The change out is very easy and might be of use to some.

What You’ll Like

With all the strong points about this tripod here are a few that make the 235AB standout:

  • The weight is feather-like. For an aluminum tripod of this size and load capacity I found the Vanguard to be exceptionally lightweight at just over 3lbs.
  • Rock solid flip locks. I have no concerns whatsoever of these locks failing under normal use.
  • Super fast setup. With the “swing under” design of the center column deployment is efficient and quite fast. Makes for a streamlined package for transport.
  • Quality Ball Head included. The ball head works wonderfully and I have experienced no drift even with my heavier lenses.

What You Might Not Like

It’s difficult to find anything that I don’t like about the Vanguard 235AB. One thing that have been noted by some is the lack of a d-ring on the base plate screw. If you don’t have a coin or tool on hand installing the plate can be a challenge. Other than that, at the time of this writing I have no other negative comments to remark about the performance of the tripod.

Final Thoughts

The main reasons why I purchased the Vanguard 235AB was because I needed a sturdy, lightweight tripod that is packable and easy to carry. I can find no area where the Vanguard falls short of my needs. The weight to height ratio is amazing and it is more than capable of handling the load of my camera setup. It’s small enough to pack into carry-on luggage as well. At it’s price point of around $149US on Amazon you will be hard pressed to find a more capable travel tripod to accompany you on all your adventures.

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