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A Quick Guide to Local Adjustment Presets in Lightroom

If you use Adobe Lightroom, I’m sure you’ve heard of develop presets and how they can jump start your creativity. But did you know that you can also create and save local adjustment presets just as easily? In this article I’m going to show you how to create and save your own local adjustment presets so you can make the most of your editing time in Lightroom.

What are Local Adjustments?

Local adjustment presets work a lot like develop presets in that they allow you to save certain combinations of edits for quick application later. The biggest difference between the two types of presets is that normal development presets generally work globally(affects the entire image) whereas local presets affect only the portions of the image you choose. These edits are applied either with either the local adjustment brush, graduated filter, radial filter, or a combination of the three. The great thing about local adjustment presets is that each preset can be applied by any of the local adjustment tools in Lightroom.

Here’s an example using the picture above. This is how it looked originally.

Let’s say we want to only lighten the leaf without disturbing the rest of the photo. Not only that, but the area could also use a little bit of a boost in clarity and sharpening. We can use the local adjustment brush and combine all this edits into one and apply them at the same time.

Now, that looks better.

This is an edit you might have use for in the future since adding a little exposure and clarity can might an image really pop. Instead of taking the time to go back in and adjust the sliders each and every time why not save this adjust as a preset? Saving local adjustments is even easier than saving a regular development preset because there’s no new folder to make and name, no check boxes to tick or untick. Everything is already set up for you and all you’ll need to do is make your adjustments and then name your new preset.

Saving the Preset

First, click the ‘custom’ drop down at the top of the local adjustments panel….

Find the bottom of the ‘Save current settings as new preset’ option at the bottom of the drop down menu and click on that.

Now it’s time to name your awesome new local adjustment preset. Just as with any other type of preset it’s a good idea to come up with a descriptive name that immediately tells you what the preset does. For this preset I’ve chosen ‘+Exp Clarity Sharp’.

And that’s it! Your new preset will appear as a freshly made preset name in the local adjustment presets dropdown menu.

Final Thoughts on Local Adjustment Presets…

Like any other preset in Lightroom, local adjustment presets save you time by eliminating the need to change multiple adjustment sliders each and every time you want to use a particular edit. Making a local adjustment preset is one of the easiest tricks you can use to speed up your post processing. Remember, every preset you make can be used with all the local adjustment tools in Lightroom. That means the adjustment preset we made above can also be applied using the radial and graduated filter as well. Local adjustment presets are great. Use this guide and find out for yourself!

Filed Under: Tutorials Tagged With: adobe, camera, cameras, Getting started, landscape photography, Lifepixel, lightroom, lightroom classic cc, Photography, photography tips, processing, tutorial

How to Use the Clarity Slider in Adobe Lightroom Classic CC

If you reach way back to Adobe’s Lightroom 1.1 build you will find the clarity slider. After its introduction wayyyy back then the clarity slider has been a favorite weapon of most landscape and even portrait photographers. This slider is a personal favorite of mine just as it is the professed secret love of many Lightroom users. It adds a little “punch” to your photographs and can work wonders with portraits, landscapes, and virtually any other image that appears to be a little visually flat.  And now in Lightroom Classic CC, the clarity slider is still going strong.

But what does the clarity slider do specifically? In this article we’re going to talk about how the clarity slider works and how you can use it more effectively to bring out the full potential of your images.

How Does the Clarity Slider Work?

When we adjust clarity, we are essentially adjusting the contrast of our photo.The difference is that instead of the entire tonal range being adjusted, the clarity slider targets the midtones only. This give the overall illusion of the image become more clear. Look at this histogram of the image above before the clarity was increased by+60…

Now, look at that same histogram after the boost in clarity

The blacks and highlights haven’t been affected very much but the midtones certainly have. And that’s the great thing about the clarity slider: it is far less likely to wash out detail in the areas which are already bright or already dark. This makes it a great tool when working with textures(insert link to texture article) with scenes which need a good bit more contrast without going into overkill in the shadows and highlights. Speaking of overkill…or rather over’clear’(haha)…the next section will talk about some things to watch out for when using the clarity slider.

How NOT to Apply Clarity

Granted, every photo is going to be different, so there are no real “rules” when it comes to using the clarity slider(or anything else in photography) to adjust your images. That being said, a general guideline that will help you immensely is the good ol’ fashioned “less is more” approach. While there clarity slider works great to add some extra power in your photograph it can also cause some unsightly side effects if abused.

Here’s a photo where the clarity has been cranked to +100. Notice anything?

On top of the entire scene now looking a little unnatural, when we zoom in we can see the real problem with using the clarity slider too liberally.

Zoomed to 3:1

Those dreaded halos. I hate them, and honestly, you probably should as well. They are caused by the pixels around high contrast areas becoming too separated from the pixels surrounding them which adds up to the bright banding around those areas. To remedy this, try adjusting clarity locally using the radial or graduated filter or the adjustment brush. If all else falls, simply back off the clarity a bit. In almost all cases less contrast will be more preferable than that dastardly halo effect.While Adobe has drastically refined the performance of the clarity slider in recent years the over clearing a photo can still be problematic. Also note the halo effect is worsened when coupling too much clarity along with too much sharpening as happened with the image above..

Final thoughts on Clarity

The clarity slider is a great tool. It helps us to increase contrast in the midtone luminosity range while avoiding blown out highlights and burnt out shadows. I use it to some extent in virtually every photograph I process. That being said, as awesome as the clarity slider can be, it can also work against you if you push it too far. Always remember to keep things in the scope of the reality you wish to present to the viewer and don’t over clarify your images. On the flip side of that you should also not be afraid to actually lessen the clarity in some of your images. It can actually smooth out skin tones and impart a nice soft contrast to a landscape. With a little bit of knowledge the clarity slider can open up entirely new post processing opportunities that you might not have considered!

Filed Under: Tutorials Tagged With: clarity, clarity slider, landscape photography, Lifepixel, lightroom, lightroom classic cc, mountain photography, Photographer, Photography, photography tips, post processing, processing, Travel photography, tutorial, Wildlife photographer

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