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Focusing a Full Spectrum Camera

If you’ve read any of my other blogs, you might know that I started IR photography as a spinoff of my astrophotography. Both of these types of photography have some similarities. First, most cameras need to be modified to shoot IR photos. For the exact same reason, you’ll need to modify your camera to shoot nebula-type astrophotography. This is needed because the internal UV/IR cut filter blocks the both the IR light for IR photography and the H-alpha light for shooting nebula (See my astrophotography series for more details).

When I first got started with astrophotography, I modified a canon 300D (Digital Rebel) with a full spectrum modification. I figured it would be the most flexible. Six years later, I still feel that way. I like the full spectrum modification as I can shoot astro, or any flavor of IR.  by adding an original white balance filter allows me to use the camera for regular color photography.

The biggest drawback of a full spectrum modified camera is the need for external filters. These block the light that would normally pass through the viewfinder. Lifepixel calibrates their IR modified cameras for autofocus. But when shooting IR with a full spectrum mod, you loose the use of the viewfinder.

When shooting the 300D, I would compose, focus and prepare the shot with the filter removed. I’d then screw on the filter and set the lens to the higher f/numbers and shoot. It was sort a crap shoot whether or not I’d get what I wanted. It did work and I shot many photos like this. One of my all-time favorites was shot with the 300D, using this technique.

I was enjoying shooting IR and wanted a better way to compose and focus my images. So my second modified camera was a Canon 40D, also modified for full spectrum. It was one of the first DSLR’s that had a live-view option. I found that this was the key to effectively using a full spectrum camera. Since the camera is modified, it sees right through the externally mounted IR filter. So live-view works quite normally. I used this camera for several years before upgrading to a slightly higher resolution Canon 50D. This camera also had a better live-view LCD, which made focusing much easier. Then I finally bought and modified a full frame Canon 5D Mk II. All my cameras were modified with a full spectrum modification.

When you shoot IR with live-view, you can see the scene just as the camera sees it. After all, it’s the main sensor shooting this live-view image. I found that shooting with a green white balance gives the images in the live-view window a more appealing color.  It is much easier to compose and focus. Having a custom white balance also makes the post-processing easier.

This is typical of what you’ll see on the camera’s LCD if you shoot without a CWB.

This is the same shot with a Green CWB frame and the camera set to use this frame for CWB.

The biggest problem for me was being able to see the LCD screen, while shooting in the bright daylight hours. I tried shading the camera with a black cloth draped over the camera. But this was pretty tedious and uncomfortable.  So I bought a Hoodman loupe and never looked back. This allows you to see the LCD very clearly. On many cameras you can also zoom live view, which will further improve your focusing with the loupe.

Keep in mind that using the LCD for composing and focusing will consume more power than viewfinder methods. So be sure to carry an extra battery or two. Alternatively, if you use a battery grip you’ll have longer sessions before a battery change is needed.  This comes at the expense of portability.

The camera & loupe can be a handful to manage if you’re doing hand-held shots.  So I resolved myself long ago to shooting with a tripod. I made a custom tripod which is a little more compact and works perfectly for my IR set-up.  But nearly any tripod will work, as long as it is stable.

Focusing an IR modified camera can be a challenge. So I thought it might be worth reviewing this topic again. With a little kit and a little practice, focusing becomes an after thought allowing you to concentrate on the other aspects of getting a great image. You don’t have to have a full spectrum modified camera to use this technique. But you should use this technique if you have a full spectrum modified camera. Practice, have fun and happy shooting.

Filed Under: Tutorials Tagged With: 40D, 50D, 5D, Astrophotography, Eric Chesak, full spectrum, H-alpha, hoodman, Infrared, loupe

If Your Eyes Could See… Part 2

In Part 1 of this series I presented a few color astro photos that represent what you’d see, if your eyes were super sensitive. In part 2, I’m presenting similar images, only these will be presented in one color, the color of H-alpha. Hydrogen alpha is likely the most important emission, for imaging the night sky. In my astrophotography blog series, I discuss the importance of H-alpha and how to image these nebula with a modified DSLR.

The Veil Nebula Complex

 

The Great Orion Nebula

The images in part 2 were all photographed in the H-alpha wavelength (656.28 nm). The exposures are long. The equipment is expensive. The tracking is critical. But the results are some of the most stunning images that I’ve ever photographed, all of which are invisible to the naked eye.

The California Nebula

All of these H-alpha images required a series of 30 minute long exposures. These are then stacked and processed to achieve the final result (again, see my astrophotgraphy series). Like their color counterparts, the subjects of these images are so dim that they are invisible to the naked eye. This makes locating the subjects somewhat tricky.  The use of a computerized mount reduces the time needed to get the telescope pointed at the target. Then it’s just a matter of fine tuning and framing. The focus is set, , the guide camera is calibrated, the filter wheel rotated to the proper filter and the exposures begin. Thirty minutes later, I check the resulting image to see if I hit the target as intended. If so, the imaging continues until the object is too low in the sky to continue.

The Heart Nebula

 

The Jellyfish Nebula

Sometimes, I’ll look up an uncommon object and point the telescope in the general area and shoot a test exposure. Many times, this technique isn’t too fruitful, but once in a while, a gem is recorded. This is the case of the image below. I scoured the web looking for similar images, to no avail. So this particular area, rarely photographed, is one of my favorite subjects.

B30 and Friends

Probably one of my all-time favorites is my mosaic of the Orion area.  This is an 8 frame 60 megapixel mosaic that required many nights to shoot and many more nights to assemble and process.  Anyone that has processed very large images in Photoshop will sympathize on the amount of work required of the computer and it’s operator.  Each frame was individually processed.  When they were all complete, each one was registered in a special piece of software called Registar.  Then all 8 were imported into Photoshop, assembled, blended and processed. more than 40 hour of post-processing was performed on this image alone.

The Orion Complex Mosaic

Imaging deep sky targets is not for everyone. It can get complicated quickly, with steep learning curves on both the imaging and post-processing sides. Imaging with a DSLR can be a superb entry into this field. If your interests lie in photographing H-alpha, like the images here, the DSLR will need to be modified, and an H-alpha filter purchased. An astro-modification or a full spectrum modification can be performed to allow the proper H-alpha wavelengths to pass. My preference is the latter for the maximum throughput and flexibility.  It allows my DSLR to be used for astrophotography, IR photography or any other application I can dream up.

The Horsehead Nebula

I hope you’ve enjoyed this short series highlighting some of my favorite images. A modified DSLR is a great way to get started doing astrophotography.  If you’re interested in giving this a try, take a look at an H-alpha modified DSLR or a full spectrum version.

Filed Under: Inspiration Tagged With: Astrophotography, Eric Chesak, full spectrum, H-alpha, hydrogen alpha, monochrome

If Your Eyes Could See… – Part 1

For those of us that shoot IR photos, we already have a glimpse into what the world looks like illuminated in the invisible light of infrared. It has fascinated me that photos photographed in this light can have such interest and depth. Similarly, I have seen things in the heavens that only those with the appropriate telescope and imaging equipment have seen. I say “seen”, but it in reality, our eyes are not sensitive enough to actually see these magnificent & hidden astroscapes.

In this series, I’ll be showing a few of my deep sky astrophotos.  These were all shot with my widefield imaging equipment. First covered will be the nebula shot in “color”. The camera (a cooled, full frame CCD) is monochrome. So the color is assembled by shooting through a series of filters and assembling the color images in Photoshop. There are a couple RGB images that contain only red green and blue light and others shot through narrowband filters. You can also review my Astrophotography series, for more detail on some of this, including shooting with a DSLR.

M45 – The Pleiades

M45 is a beautiful open cluster that’s a little difficult to photograph.  It’s a reflection nebula, which means the dust that is visible is being reflected from the nearby starlight.  It needs to be imaged with RGB filters, instead of narrow band filters.  So it is much more affected by light pollution.  Even so, this image was shot from my backyard in a fairly heavily light polluted area.  There is much more dust and nebulosity to be seen here when imaged from darker skies.

Tulip Nebula

If your eyes were much more sensitive, the night sky would look very different. Most of these images represent a field of view of about 4 x 8 full Moons. So the features are large and would be prominent in the night sky. Imagine looking out your window and seeing the Tulip Nebula rising from the East.

A telescope’s main function is to gather light. This is one of the purposes for larger and larger telescopes. Resolution is also improved, but let’s just look at the light gathering ability. Compare the diameter of a telescope’s aperture with the pupil in your eye. This large aperture gathers many times more photons than your eye alone. The larger the diameter, the better the light gathering and the easier it is to see faint objects.

M42 _The Great Orion Nebula

With the exception of the Orion nebula (shown above), most of the objects in photos shown here are not visible to the naked eye. The additional light gathering ability of the telescope helps to increase the visibility.  Long exposures improve the image depth and visibility even more. This basically stacks more and more photons on the film or CCD until the image is visible.  All of the images shown here contain at least several hours of integration time.  As an example, the California Nebula was photographed with 6 filters, RGB and 3 narrow band filters over a period of 7 nights.  This resulted in a total integration time of 18 hours.  This may seem excessive, but image stacking helps significantly reduce the image noise.  Even images from a modified DSLR produce fantastic results.

RGB Barnard 30 & Sh2-264

The image above was shot only with RGB filters and exposures of 5 and 10 minutes.  The total integration time was 2.5 hours.  I wanted to point out the difference of this image and the one directly below, which also includes data from 3 additional filters, Hydrogen Alpha (H-Alpha), Oxygen III and Sulphur II (narrowband filters).  Each narrow band exposures were 30 minutes in length.  Many were recorded over several nights bringing the total exposure integration time to nearly 20 hours.  As you can see with longer the exposures, much more detail is visible.

HaRGB Barnard 30 + Sh226

Each of these images also requires a significant amount of processing time.  The individual monochrome image stacks needed to be processed.  Then the data from each filter color needed to be color mapped, aligned and overlayed.  Some final processing is done and the image is complete.  At least, that’s the way it’s supposed to work.  I always found that I never seemed to actually finish any image.  I’d continually tweak and adjust until I was happy, each time thinking it was done.

IC2177 – The Seagull Nebula

My imaging telescope is considered widefield (530mm f/5).  It provides lower magnification, in favor of wider views of the night sky.   Although slightly magnified, the images would still appear fairly large if you could see with super sensitivity.

SH2-129 – The Flying Bat Nebula

In the next part of this short series, we’re going to take a look at similar celestial views.  However, these images were recorded using only a single filter. I’ll share some of my all-time favorites in my favorite formats.  Stay tuned.

 

Aside:  Did you know that Life Pixel does camera modifications for astrophotography?  As I described in an earlier astrophotography blog , most stock cameras need to be modified to be able to see the all-important hydrogen-alpha emission.  This emission is deep red and is blocked by most stock camera UV/IR cut filters.  Replacing this filter with a modified version that passes the H-alpha emission is very important for the highest sensitivity and best results.  Alternatively, the camera can be modified for full spectrum use and external filters added for astrophotography use.   You can find details in the links below:

Full Spectrum Modifications

Hydrogen-Alpha Modification

Filed Under: Inspiration Tagged With: Astrophotography, Barnard Dark, Bat, Eric Chesak, full spectrum, H-alpha, Ha, HaRGB, IC2177, M42, M45, Modification, Narrowband, Nebula, NGC1499, Orion, Pleiades, RGB, Seagull, Sh2-129, SH2-264, Tulip

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